Hi there. I just bought a Bond. I learned the remote to the Bond. The issues that I have are that for every button, you have to press it twice for it to work. Inevitably, the state gets out of sequence and you end up with Off = On, and vice versa. The remote is a TX029-RS. Any thoughts or best practices?
Support tells me that the remote isn’t supported, so there is not guarantee that it will work. I guess I’ll be taking it back.
Hi Patrick, we haven’t seen this particular FCC ID, but based on the FCC’s listing, there’s no reason why we can’t support this. We’d like troubleshoot this and get it working for you, if you’re willing to bear with us. If so, a couple questions:
- Can you provide an image of the front of the remote?
- Can you provide your Bond ID and the name of the affected device?
How long would it take to support it? If it’s a couple weeks, I’ll hang onto it. A few months, I’ll probably return it.
Both devices. Same remote. One is set to different dip switch so they don’t control each other.
Sorry. I mean.m I have two identical model fans. Two remotes. One is set to work with one. The second with the second. Bond had both remotes loaded.
My bond is no longer connected as I planned to return it tonight once your support said it’s not supported. Does it need to be connected?
We can probably support this today. We’re looking at the signals now, it appears that this is indeed a known protocol, but all the bits have “holes” in them and weren’t interpreted correctly.
Two ways to solve this:
- Try recording very close (<1 inch) to the Bond, hopefully in this way the “holes” are avoided, and you should get a result from our database (it should be named “B2”)
- We’re seeing if we can use your already-existing recordings to construct a “holeless” recording on our end, at which point we could send you some working versions of this remote.
If you have time, try out #1, if not, no worries, we can probably get #2 finished pretty quickly. And yes, the Bond would need to be connected for either solution.
Ok. I’m currently out for the evening. I can try later.
Perhaps I am not doing something correct. I was just trying to program individual buttons.
Ok. It’s back online.
How would I know it’s B2? The steps I am following are:
Select Ceiling Fan
Then it just asks me to program individual buttons
Choose to record a single button, if it finds any results in our database, it’ll offer them to you. If, after scanning, it only gives you a single button to test, it hasn’t found any results. If that’s the case, I’ll push you a couple devices that we think will work for you.
OK, well the <1” thing was the ticket. Once I did that, it told me it found the remote and all seems to be working. Thanks!
I think I’m all squared away. B2 is working.
Great! The nature of the Bond Bridge is that for some remotes, the ideal recording distance is less than an inch away, and for others, the ideal recording distance is more like 10 feet away, and recording so close would fail! So there’s not really a “one size fits all” way to record… We need to figure out how to provide the right instructions to the right users, but it’s not a straightforward problem to solve.